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De la mano de Costasurf.com, os acercamos un resumen de las primeras Jornadas de Meteorología y Oceanografía aplicadas al Surf, que se celebraron el pasado fin de semana 4 y 5 de abril en Gijón.
Un buen fin de semana, sin duda, estos días en los que rompes un poco la rutina y socializas en círculos ajenos a lo que es la gente que ves habitualmente. Además una buena sensación de haber aprovechado el tiempo que ya es suficiente.
Voy a empezar por lo peor de estas hornadas. El horario, matador el horario intensivo del sábado, hizo que la mañana del domingo me pasara volando. Empezó con madrugón para llegar a tiempo a Gijón a las 9:30 de la mañana. Lo demás es bueno. El primer contacto con las jornadas es lo típico, saludar a la gente que conoces, y conocer gente nueva. Tony y Gabi son buenos comunicadores, entre los dos hacen un tándem muy bueno, uno más didáctico otro más técnico, pero bien complementados. Comentábamos luego un poco más en privado que pese a que eran las segundas jornadas que impartían, parecía que llevaban haciéndolo mucho más tiempo.
La materia da para un curso infinitamente más amplio y de mucho más nivel académico que el que da tiempo en unas jornadas como estas. Aun así, como quedó claro en la exposición, es una materia que no está hecha para surfistas entendiendo que son modelos que tienen aplicaciones muy diversas en distintos campos de la ciencia, y que nosotros, aprovechamos para una actividad hasta cierto punto lúdica (la mayoría) como es el surf. De ahí que quizá aspectos de la investigación en este campo que aun están por desarrollar sean quizá los que más nos interesen a nosotros, por ejemplo explicar por qué un tren de olas contiene un determinado número de olas, algunos aspectos de los periodos de olas, etc.
El primer día, información desde algo tan básico como es el origen de la energía que genera las olas, pasando por su formación primitiva hasta llegar por fin a lo que nos interesa, las olas que llegan a nuestras costas. Esto que parece tan simple es un auténtico mundo de fuerzas (o no fuerzas según quien te lo explique) que provocan los giros de las borrascas, anticiclones, donde se generan las olas de una borrasca, gradientes de presión, etc....
Para al final llegar el segundo día a un aspecto más práctico de todos los conocimientos vistos el día anterior. Los modelos de predicción, como interpretarlos, y qué herramientas tenemos para afinar las predicciones a corto y medio plazo en la costa, no en aguas profundas.
Fuente: Costasurf.com
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Swarovski Crystal
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